Over and over, my dad sang on our one hour and forty-minute drive to visit a town that had just been named one of the best places to live in Britain: “Wheear ‘as ta bin sin ah saw thee, On Ilkla Moor baht ‘at?!”

Ever since I told him the location of our next day out, he’s been teaching me about the Yorkshire rhyme he picked up in school in the 1960s. I’m not quite sure what it means, but it’s definitely referring to the moor above the town of Ilkley, the town name on the aforementioned…